Our first full day took us a short 30 minute journey north of Valladolid to the lesser known area of Cigales where we visited Finca Museum. Historically known for its dark rosado wines, it is an that has suffered economically due to its close proximity to the city and the viticultural areas have struggled to gain any recognition. This all changed about 25 years ago when the Baron de Ley group – a big Rioja producer – decided to invest in over two hundred hectares of DO Cigales vineyards including a large plot of very old vines. This investment has created a renewed interest in the area and the fortunes are improving. Cigales is proving to offer some great value with its Tempranillo.
We were lucky to be hosted by Lluis – the technical director – and he gave us a terrific insight into the vineyards, terroir, stony soils, effects of climate change and the future of Cigales. We wandered round the very impressive winery and tasted some juicy Syrah from the tank.
Upstairs they have a very elegant tasting area and we tucked into delicious hams while tasting through a selection of their range. They now make a superb pale (ie Provence style) rosado, an amazing wine called La Renacida which is a blend of of numerous different grapes both red and white, all in one plot and which are co-fermented. It was a fascinating wine. We rounded off the tasting with a stalwart of my list – the Finca Museum Reserva which was as good as ever and their amazing Numerus Clausus – very limited production from 97 year old vines.
From Cigales, it was a 50 minute drive south to Rueda. A switch to white wines and an opportunity to visit a winery that I have been visiting since 2012, Menade. They have pioneered organic production in the region, have developed natural and no added sulphur wines and have created a truly exceptional experience.
Ivan was our host. I first met Ivan back in 2018 on literally his first week so this was an opportunity to see him in action. We started off in the old cellar in La Seca which has been transformed and updated since I was last there. They have retained lots of original features and we saw the old underground vats and tasted some rare and fabulous wines directly from the barrel., including limited production Verdejos and an old style sherry that were amazing. Ivan is funny, passionate and a wonderful ambassador for the Sanz family who own the estate.
From La Seca we headed over to Rueda and the newer cellar. They have created an ecologically diverse environment with swathes of herbs and flowers and insect hotels. Geese and chickens roam the vineyards while donkeys graze and produce manure.
Lunch was a wonderful occasion. Bread, cheese, hummus, gazpacho, an incredible gammon with salad, followed by sweet cakes and biscuits for dessert. All washed down with more Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc and Tempranillo.
A truly wonderful day.
