It was about 80 minutes drive east to the commune of Gavi, through the flat landscape of the Po valley with its fields of cereals, crossing the Tanaro River from time to time. At Alessandria we turned south and soon the Appenines came into view.
In Basaluzzo our coach driver negotiatied the ludicrously tight corner that seems to be compulsory on Tim’s tours, and beyond the landscape became more undulating, with vines on hillsides. Soon after the Gavi commune signpost we arrived at some fabulous neoclassical gateposts, which were not going to allow our coach through.. Luckily we were able to nip round them, and up the drive way lined with very sculptured oak trees to the even more fabulous neoclassical villa at the top of the hill..
La Giustiniana is one of the oldest estates in Gavi. Benedictines planted vines on the site in the 10th Century, and the Giustiniana family bought the old convent in 1625, building the villa and chapel and continuing to grow grapes. Subsequent generations of noble Liguruian families lived in the villa, until it was confiscated by Napoleon in the 19th Century. A period of decline followed, ending only in 2016 when local vignerons Magda Pedrini and Stefano Massone bought the property, renovating the villa for hospitality and investing in improving the vineyards. The property falls under the Gavi del Commune di Gavi DOCG, the ‘original’ area where Gavi was made, though the Gavi DOCG includes 11 communes in the area. The DOCG was only awarded in 1998, prior to this the wines were made under a DOC for Cortese di Gavi.
This was explained to us by Chiara, who runs the business side of the estate, working along side Sylvia who manages the house and a team of 7 who tend the gardens and vines.
We walked up to the Montessora vineyard, which has iron rich alluvial clay soil. On the way we had a good look at the mechanical harvester, and in the vineyard we saw the stalks from which the berries had been shaken still attached to the vines. This was a first for a lot of us! Chiara explained that most of the vineyards are machine harvested, and are planted to accommodate the width of the tractor that tows the harvester, though some of the steeper sites are hand harvested. She told us that only last week they had had a visit from the authorities who manage the DOCG, ensuring that they were complying with rules relating to the amount of grapes they can harvest to make under the Gavi name.
Back at the villa we enjoyed a glass of Method Traditional Gavi di Gavi, made by Magda Pedrini. From the 2014 vintage it was disgorged (“shoccatura” in Italian) in 2023, and the nine years on the lees had added wonderful creamy hints of brioche to the fresh white flowers and apple flavours typical of the Cortese grape. We then embarked on a delicious lunch, starting with a beautifully marinated beef carpaccio, with which we had the current vintage of their two Gavis, the Montessora from the vineyard we had visited and the Lugarara from a vineyard with blue grey marl and sandy soil. The difference was very clear, the Lugarara was lighter and more floral, while the Montessora was more minerally, and the 2018 Montessora that we also drank was far more evolved and complex – proof that top Gavi is really worth laying down for a few years.
Lunch concluded with a beef ravioli and some Barbera that they make from grapes brought in from Asti, under the Piemonte DOC. We applauded the chef and the team, and strolled down the driveway to the coach.
The drive back rested us pleasantly and in the evening Tim hosted drinks and food at a the San Giovanni bar in Alba, a lovely conclusion to a fabulous day.