Ribera del Duero was our focus for day 3 of our tour and another sunny day beckoned. Heading east out of Valladolid, we took in the sites of Abadia Retuerta – an amazing five star hotel and winery, and Vega Sicilia – the iconic winery that is perhaps the most famous in all of Spain. Alas we did not have time to visit either as we were heading to a small village called Melida – population totalling 28! With no large vehicle access to the village it was a short walk into the centre where you find the Melida winery. This is a tiny producer making only 15000 bottles per year and would provide a stark contrast to Valduero which we would visit later.
We were hosted by Fernando, husband of one of the sisters who own the estate. He was looking very fresh – despite a new baby arriving last Friday, harvest finishing a day before and passing his Theory paper of the MW exam! He is a wonderfully engaging host and took us through the family history as we wandered through the tiny winery. On view were large buckets of freshly picked grapes, just waiting to warm up a bit to allow the yeasts to ferment. We tasted a couple of wines from the barrel before heading upstairs to their small restaurant and tasting through the rest of the range. It was a fabulous visit and everyone was totally entranced by Fernando.
From Melida, it was just thirty five minutes further west to Valduero bodega. I have been visiting Valduero since 2012 and it has been a wonderful journey to watch how their business has grown and witness the changes and innovations over the years. As ever, we were hosted by the amazing Alfonso who delivers a highly educational yet entertaining overview of the family estate. he has been with the winery for 25 years and is the most longstanding employee after the owners!
Walking through the vast cavernous cellars, it was all action as the harvest had only just finished and trucks and forklifts were scurrying around. Alfonso talked about the philosophy, the attention to detail and the high quality they seek to achieve. Yolanda, the winemaker, has managed 40 consecutive harvests! We wended our way through the huge hanger like tunnels that are now covered with vines, past the artworks created from barrels – every other year they sponsor a competition among top local art students, to the room where where we signed the lid of our very own barrel and became Membresía la Tendada.
Then it was time for tasting and lunch. The generosity is endless at Valduero. Albillo white followed by four different reservas of increasing age. Alfonso carefully managed the tasting, ensuring that understood the nuances of each wine. Then it was time to eat. Chorizo and peppers, Burgos morcilla, garlic soup, amazing lamb and some sweet biscuits to finish. Gran Reserva 2015 appeared at some point which was delicious and we couldn’t finish without some ice cold Orujo – the Spanish grappa.
An incredible day!
