Wednesday was our Barolo day and a focus on two contrasting estates: Domenico Clerico and Giovanni Corino.
Domenico Clerico is very much viewed as a pioneer of the quality drive within Barolo in the 70’s and 80’s. Coming from a humble background, Domenico was a gifted salesman but also acutely aware of where the best Barolo wines came from. With 26 hectares to the estate, Domenico carefully acquired land in the best vineyards and promoted high quality wines both within Italy and abroad. The net result is a stunning winery built in 2011 that has commanding views over swathes of vineyards.
Family member Cecilia Rocca hosted our visit and commenced with a lively insight into the family history before taking us downstairs into the barrel cellar. The Clerico estate is not afraid of experimentation and we saw barriques, traditional large casks, amphora and new cement. All the plots are vinified separately and each barrel is carefully monitored prior to blending.
From the cellar past a rather cute tractor to the stunning glass tasting room with more amazing views. We tasted an excellent range of wines with Dolcetto, Barbera and then an exquisite array of Barolos including their rare Aeroplanservaj. A super visit and a great start to our Barolo day.
A fifteen minute drive took us to the wonderful Tota Virginia restaurant. Riccardo is a wonderful host and we at outside overlooking more truly stunning views. A delicious lunch was served comprising a lightly poached egg with a saffron and celeriac cream, mushroom risotto, a perfect beef cheek and a pannacotta and Bunet dessert. All washed down with Piemonte Chardonnay, Nebbiolo d’Alba and Barolo.
It was only ten minutes to another family estate – Giovanni Corino. This small family estate has nine hectares in La Morra and produces a number of single vineyard Barolos alongside Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo d’Alba.
Our host was Stefania Corino who brilliantly conveyed the family passion and we were able to see at first hand grapes arriving, immediately crushed and destemmed and then put into the vat. Stefania’s 89 year old father in law was on hand to keep the yard tidy and ensure that unruly tourists didn’t get in the way! A quick look in the winery was followed by a terrific tasting as we worked our way through everything!
Dolcetto, two contrasting Barberas, Nebbiolo d’Alba made from young vines and then a selection of single vineyard Barolos that showed off the contrast of terroir, the difference in elevation and varying aspect that all contribute to the subtle differences in taste.
An amazing end to our visits, and our day ended back in Alba, for another evening of balmy weather and strolling, drinking and snacking.