Our first full day of visits and tastings took us to Waiheke Island. A half hour ferry ride from Auckland harbour (itself a 10 minute walk from our hotel), the rain clouds lifting and some brisk sea breezes to blow last night’s cobwebs away. Good start to the day.
Arriving in Waiheke, we boarded our compact coach accompanied by Rachael Carter, who had ridden the ferry with us, along with Dusty Springfield (her Old English sheepdog). Rachael owns Soho Family Vineyards, which we visited first, and introduced us to winegrowing and making (and staying solvent) in Waiheke Island. Rachel’s dad John had been a NZ wine pioneer and had planted his own vines in the early 2000s.
In the vibrant tasting area over a glass of fizz, we learnt more. Rachael had been a pioneer of screw caps (with some catchy sloganeering), and when she had got use of the closures in New Zealand to 98% she sold her business and returned to work with her dad. She has created a brilliant business, combining a very modern tasting experience with two ranges of great wines, drawing on their own vineyards and others’, not only in Waiheke but also in Marlborough and Central Otago.
Rachael handed over to Pete Turner, her winemaker, to talk a bit more about winemaking and take us through six of their wines, comparing Chardonnays from Marlborough and Waiheke, trying a Pinot Noir from Bendigo in Central Otago, and finally three reds from Waiheke, a Syrah and two Bordeaux blends. All were from her Black Collection (premium) range and were really high quality.
A quick trip in the coach up to the top of the island, we looked down over the Onetangi Valley, a natural amphitheatre that protects the vines from the worst of winds, provides some rain shadow, and captures sunlight. It was a beautiful scene, and even the arduous work (all done by hand) of shoot thinning leaf plucking and grape picking that Pete described sounded quite appealing in the lovely sunshine.
Rachael and Pete left us to walk back to the winery, we took the coach down the hill to Casita Miro.
Casita Miro is the creation of the Bond family, and Cat Bond introduced us to their wines and their philosophy over a tasting of a rosé, a Pinot Gris and two Bordeaux blends. The family have grown grapes and made wine for over 25 years, and in that time have developed a wonderful gastronomy experience in the hills overlooking the sea. They adore Spain, to the point where Cat’s husband Barnet has constructed a series of Gaudi-esque mosaics that create a mini Parc Guell-like walk around the verdant grounds. They make vermouth, though they have to bring sherry in from Spain (their current sherry themed food pairing looked very appealing).
Our lunch was amazing, a series of delicious tapas, many made from produce they grow themselves, with local fish and lamb also featuring, accompanied by an Albariño and a Malbec. It’s not unusual for us to feel a bit full after lunch but hands were being raised well before the final courses were served. It was a wonderful meal, our surroundings authentically Spanish, but with a true Kiwi twist. Tim had to drag us away.
To our final visit, the Te Motu estate. Te Motu Arai Roa was the Maori name for Waiheke, and the Dunleavy family bought some land in the Onetangi Valley (next to Soho) in 1988, planting Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and making their first vintage in 1993. It is the third oldest winery on Waiheke Island, and our purpose was to benefit from their long history (in Kiwi terms) and to drink some older vintages.
Unlike the Merlot dominated blends of Soho, their wines are Cabernet Sauvignon led. The wines spend at least 2 years in barrique, and a further 2-3 years in bottle before release, and are made to cellar for 30 years! We tasted the 2006, the 2010 and the 2019 and the evolution of this powerful wine was great to appreciate. The 2006 was a little past its peak, the 2010 was drinking ‘a point’, and the 2019 had bucketloads of dark fruits, smooth tannins and, of course potential. A great wine to have in one’s cellar for a few years!
A final trip through the pretty island, which serves as part of Auckland’s commuter belt (and a major holiday/weekend destination), we were back on the ferry and saying goodbye. Waiheke wines are not available widely in the UK, so it was great to have had a day focusing on them, and to meet some fantastic people whose creativity and talents made for a very special day.
