Our Southern Burgundy tour has commenced. Our arrival was not without its hurdles to overcome. Due to air traffic control strikes our Tuesday afternoon flight was cancelled and a number of knock on consequences meant we arrived in Mâcon at 3.30am on Wednesday morning!
However, spirits were undimmed and we eagerly anticipated our first full day of wine tasting which was just a few hours away.
The Mâconnais was our destination and a full day beckoned with three visits. Being based in the town of Mâcon, we were never more than fifteen minutes away from our hotel thus enabling a wide coverage of the region.
The family owned Domaine Corsin was our first stop and just like last year, we were hosted by Marine Coste who gave us a wonderful insight into this family estate – now run by the fifth generation of Gilles and Jean-Jacques. With family vineyards, some of which are over 90 years old, spanning the AOC Saint Véran, Mâcon-Villages and Pouilly-Fuissé, they have acquired an excellent reputation in the region. After a brief tour of the press, tanks and barrel cellar we headed into the amazing tasting room that oozed history and charm.
As ever, the tasting was exceptional. We tasted through much of the range culminating in their Pouilly Fuissé 2020 1er Cru. All the wines reflected their diverse terroir and gave everyone a first insight into the nuances of the region.
From Domaine Corsin it was a five minute hop to Domaine Nadine Ferrand where we met another Marine – Marine Ferrand. This is a completely different story. Twenty two years ago, Marine’s mother Nadine Ferrand switched from selling grapes to négociants to bottling wine under their own label. With 13 hectares of vineyards under their control, part owned, part rented, Nadine and Marine Ferrand have established a quality focussed family brand that has a strong presence locally as well as exporting around the world.
Marine discussed the vineyards and then we headed inside for a very informal tasting accompanied by some delicious canapés supplied by a local traiteur.
Another great selection of wines was tasted with particular focus on unoaked styles of Mâcon Villages, Saint Véran and Pouilly Fuissé and culminating in an amazing “Vendange Automne” – a late picked Chardonnay that was really rich and textured with a mere hint of sweetness.
From Ferrand, it was five minutes to one of the titans of the region – the historic Château de Fuissé. Owner Benedicte Vincent hosted an amazing visit as she took us round the estate and delivered a fascinating insight into the three distinct ‘climats’ of the estate. Le Clos is walled on three sides and creates a slightly warmer environment for the vines and intense concentration in the wine. Les Combettes vineyard is influenced by the woods close by and a different aspect and Les Brûlés delivers a more exposed site with the opportunity for an intense style of wine.
We learnt about the terrible destruction in 2021 of 70% of the vineyards caused by hail (echoed by Corsin and Ferrand) and felt a real concern for future generations at the prospect of more regular catastrophic events.
The family property is truly historic and absolutely stunning. We tasted a number of their wines, including 2020 Le Clos and Les Combettes, in their beautiful tasting room which oozed history and was a beautiful place to end our first day. Benedicte hosted a brilliant tasting that confirmed the stunning quality of this estate.
Our group were made of stern stuff, and despite sleep deprivation we headed out in the evening to enjoy what should have been our first night dinner, which I had moved from Tuesday. Jambon persillé, poulet de bresse a la crème, fromages and an apple dessert fortified us suitably for what I am sure will be a great night’s sleep!