Our final full day in Rioja took us to Oriental region to the east of Logrono. Historically known as the Rioja Baja region, it was renamed in 2017 to avert some negative comparisons with the Rioja Alta. All we found was quality of the highest order.
Our first stop was Vinedos Real Rubio in Aldenueva de Ebro. Like many family owned wineries in this part of Rioja, their origins lay in selling grapes to the local cooperative but in 2004 decided to set up their own winery and bottle under the Real Rubio label. It has clearly been a great success as they expanded quickly and export a high proportion of their production. We were hosted by owner Mariluz, winemaker son Victor and Enrique who heads up their export team so we were well looked after and received great detail about their philosophy and desire to innovate. They are well established in the UK with own distribution network.
We were privileged to taste the first vintage of a barrel fermented Maturana Blanca, Garnacha Blanca and Tempranillo Blanco blend that doesn’t even have a name yet; a 100% Maturana Tinta Rioja; Garnacha Rosado with a Provencal twist; fabulous Crianza and Reserva and their single vineyards Finca El Tordillo. The wines were exceptional and gave us a different perspective on Rioja – particularly with the involvement of the lesser known grape varieties.
As we came out of the barrel cellar/tasting room we were delighted to be presented with an array of cheeses, meats and more wine of course!
From Real Rubio, it was a thirty minute drive west to Andosilla and we met up en route with owner Luis and his (confident English speaking) colleaguePedro in their organic vineyards. Pedro gave us a great insight into the family history, how organic viticulture has always been their philosophy – well before it became trendy. We then headed to the winery itself and met the rest of the family – we felt very well looked after. After a quick tour of the winery we headed upstairs for the tasting and yet again were presented with an array of wines that surprised and educated. Garnacha was the fore here and we tasted stunning wines from 2008, 2001 and 1998 as well as a unique Sauvignon Blanc/Garnacha Blanco blend and another delicious Rosado.
We then headed outside for a fabulous, relaxed snack lunch with tortilla, sausages, roast pork and more wine. The sun shone, it was a warm, sunny afternoon and it was a real test to try and get people to leave – but we only had four hours before dinner.
It was a truly magnificent day in the Rioja Oriental.
Our final night dinner was a short walk to Restaurante Aitor Esnal. Aitor is the chef and he has created a very different and innovative Asian inspired menu that came in waves of small dishes. Utterly delicious and paired with seven different wines including the 2010 Vina Tondonia Reserva red and finishing with a revisit of the Winter Harvest sweet wine that we tasted at 200 Monges on Friday.
Rioja has been a revelation in terms of the depth and breadth of style and I think everyone has come away with a completely revised perception of this historic and well known wine region.