Friday was destined to be a big day as we completed our exploration of the Primorje region to the west of Slovenia by visiting the Vipava Valley. This is a very different terroir to the Goriska Brda region that we saw yesterday with a more rolling undulating landscape, more fertile soil and a wetter microclimate. First up on our agenda was the tiny four hectare estate of Sutor. Run by Mitja Lavrencic, we received a masterclass in barrel aged white wine production as we compared vintages to illustrate the difference in style from cool to hot years. This tasting not only confirmed the very high quality of Slovenian wines but challenged our perceptions – particularly of oaked Sauvignon Blanc. Mitja was an engaging and welcoming host and alongside the mix of Malvasia, Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon, we were utterly overwhelmed when Mitja brought out one of his last bottles of Chardonnay 2000. Utterly superb with amazing depth and richness and with still a few years to go.
It was then a short hop to Vipava town where we had lunch at Gostilna Podfarovz. Our restauranteur Gregor had a particularly sharp wit that kept us entertained as we munched our way through a delightful four course traditional menu. Deer carpaccio, a barley,bacon and asparagus risotto, pork kebabs and a walnut strudel were washed down with a selection of the local Vinska Krapez wines that the owner presented herself.
We managed to waddle back to the bus for the short trip to the small village of Mance where we visited the Jamsek estate. A small family property of six hectares this was very much a family affair, and we met the whole family! Erika talked us through a great selection of wines including two indigenous grape varieties that none of us had tasted before Zelen and Pinela – unique to the Vipava Valley. This was yet another example of wonderful Slovenian hospitality, fresh and approachable wines and the undeniable quality that is emerging at every level.
We settled into the coach for our transfer to Maribor for the next leg of our adventure.