Tuesday 29th September – Fattoria Selvapiana
The wonderful new EES system at Pisa airport was unkind to some on the BA flight, so we left a little behind schedule, but the sun was shining so it didn’t matter.
Our destination was Fattoria Selvapiana in the Chianti Rufina region just to the west of Florence. Selvapiana is run by sixth generation family member Federico Giuntini and it was Federico who hosted our visit.
It was 2pm by the time we arrived so we settled straight into lunch. Crostini, wild boar pasta, beef stew and a lovely selection of blue cheese made for the perfect lunch start, as we paired the dishes with a top class selection of Federico’s wines including older vintage reds and a stunning Vin Santo.
Federico took us to see the Bucerchiale vineyard and then – a rare treat – the chance to see the bunches of Trebbiano grapes hanging from racks – slowly drying out ready to be made into Vin Santo in January 2027. There is only a limited time frame to see this and we were all suitably impressed. A super visit and lunch and a great start to the tour.
We headed for Siena, to check into our hotel and enjoy an evening strolling the streets and Campio.
Wednesday 30th September – Bulichella, Guado al Tasso, Le Vigne di Silvia
Wednesday was destined to be a big day with three visits scheduled and many kilometres to cover. Heading south to Grosseto from Siena and then up round towards the coast, our first stop was at the wonderful Bulichella winery in the lesser known Suvereto DOCG. The story around this estate all centres around Hideyuki Miyakawa who came from Japan on his motorbike to explore Europe and other parts of the world. He met his Italian wife at a motorshow in Turin and the rest, as they say, is history! Hideyuki co founded ItalDesign – an automotive design company which worked with a number of top car brands. In 1983, the family moved to Suvereto with four other families to set up a farm/social project and the winery was formed in 1999 when the Miyakawa family took over the whole estate.
We were hosted by Maria-Giulia and Stefano, both family members who tag teamed us around the winery and the vineyards. It is an incredible story that combines Japanese and Italian cultures in a stunning and beautiful way.
From Bulichella, it was a 35 minute drive to Bolgheri and the legendary estate of Guado al Tasso. This is part of the Antinori stable of wines and has been long established as one of the top brands in Bolgheri – home to the legendary Sassicaia.
We were only there for lunch, but Antinori always do things well and this was no exception. Delicious vegetable tart, perfectly cooked and tasty chicken and a lemon dessert were just right – and washed down the Vermentino white, Il Bruciato red and of course the Guado al Tasso 2023.
The day was not over – we still had to go to Le Vigne di Silvia – a wonderful 6 hectare estate, with sisters Silvia and Stefania at the helm. Stefania, as always, hosted a highly energetic visit that encapsulated the family history moving from Le Marche to Bolgheri, the return from abroad of the two sisters, the beginning of the winery, their mother Lavinia’s amazing chickens and dad Carlo’s former business of growing Basil. A whirlwind of joy and delicious wines.
Thursday 1st October – Felsina
The wonderful estate of Felsina was the one winery on our agenda today. Situated right on the border of Chianti Classico and Colli Senesi, the first wine was made here in 1966. Formerly a hunting lodge, the owners converted various parts of the building into cellars and over the decades Felsina has become a leading estate in Tuscany.
Michaele hosted our visit with charm and aplomb, and led us through the amazing cellars. Felsina have always only used 100% Sangiovese in their wines which fifty years ago was quite pioneering. As the winery has expanded, producing approximately 500,000 bottles per year, they have sensitively converted various outbuildings and retained a sense of the history of the estate. It was an excellent tour.
After the tour we made our way into their elegant dining room for lunch – exactly the same location as our very first visit to Felsina in 2004. We began with a tasting of four mono-varietal olive oils which added another dimension to the day. Lunch was a delicious chickpea soup, wild boar pasta and the most sublime orange mousse that was unbelievably perfect with the Vin Santo.
As always, the wines were terrific. Chianti Classico, Riservas, their super Tuscan Fontalloro and their stunning Vin Santo were all consumed with gusto.
Yet another super day at Felsina!
Friday 2nd October – Le Mortelle and Castello Banfi
Friday was the turn of the big names. Heading in the same direction as Thursday – south of Siena and skirting around Grosseto, we arrived at Le Mortelle – part of the Antinori stable. Le Mortelle (or myrtle the evergreen shrub in English) was bought by Antinori in 1999 and as you might expect from such a famous wine family, they have invested heavily in the project. Vineyards were planted, a state of the art winery was carefully dug down and into the hill to maintain the environmental sensitivity and a restaurant was set up on site. It has beautiful aesthetics and a lovely sense of calm. Barbara hosted our visit and gave us detailed information on the formation of the estate and led us into the cavernous winery down the elegant spiral wooden staircase,
Our tasting was held in their stunning tasting room with a huge picture window overlooking part of their estate. A delicious Vermentino followed by a couple of reds and culminating in their super premium Ampio rounded off an excellent visit.
From Le Mortelle it was an hour’s drive to another big estate, but this time in Montalcino – the Banfi estate. Perched on top of a hill, the old 13th century castle Poggio Alla Mura, was acquired by the Banfi Estate in the USA in 1978 and subsequently renamed to Castello Banfi. Much to the dismay of the locals, huge renovations were done, vineyards reshaped and antagonism created. While of some of the earlier transgressions were subsequently regretted by the new owners, Banfi has become one of the most significant players in the Montalcino area with a huge winery providing employment, a hotel, two restaurants and an impressive Enoteca.
We arrived and headed straight for lunch in a private dining room with excellent views of the surrounding countryside. A delicious four course lunch ensued, paired with a top class selection of Chardonnay, Rosso di Montalcino, two vintages of Brunello di Montalcino and a sweet Moscadello di Montalcino. After lunch, rather than head into the massive winery, we took the opportunity to look at the historic Castello and took a wander inside the Balsameria – an amazing cellar where they age balsamic vinegar for 12 years in unsealed small barriques.
Saturday 3rd October – Capella Sant’ Andrea
The tour was not yet over and with a leisurely 11.30 start, we began our journey towards Pisa airport with a stop just outside the famous town of San Gimignano. Cappella Sant’Andrea is a small, organic family estate that has the most wonderful views and another place that has a delightful sense of calm. As the bus can’t get down the narrow road, most people enjoyed the 800 metre walk before we engaged with Flavia, the owner, who gave us some valuable insights into the estate.
Lunch now beckoned and we started tucking into some raw vegetables with olive oil, asparagus pesto and a saffron mayonnaise. The first of three Vernaccia di San Gimignano whites were served and the afternoon continued with a delicious chick pea starter, cold cuts, cheese and more wine. Hosted by Linda, Daniela and Povlina, they created a very relaxed atmosphere while at the same time conveying the background to the family and the organic philosophy that they employ. Three Vernaccias, two Chiantis and an IGP Rosso Il Maritate rounded off the selection.
Another great visit and a delightful end to the tour.