A day in Roero and the Monferrato Hills

Our first full day in Piedmont took us the Roero region just the northwest of Alba.

Heading for the town of Monta, the destination was the highly regarded Giovanni Almondo winery. Hosted by Stefano Almondo, we received an absolute masterclass in the geology and history of the Roero, the effect of the terroir on Nebbiolo and Arneis viticulture and the philosophy of the estate. Stefano was charming and hugely engaging and the sense of his connection with the land was palpable.
The wines we tasted were exceptional. Two Arneis and two Nebbiolos – contrasting and reflecting the different terroir and age of vines.
We then took a short drive into the vineyards and saw at first hand everything that Stefano had described. This part of the Roero is stunningly beautiful and Stefano was in his element talking through the different ages, impact of low rainfall and the ability of the vines to survive and adapt.
This was a truly memorable visit.

From Monta, it was a short drive to the pretty hilltop village of Guarene and the wonderful Miralanghe restaurant. I have been coming here since our first tour in 2006 and they never disappoint. An exquisite lunch of Vitello Tonnato, risotto with hazelnuts, beef Tajarin and panna cotta and hazelnut cake was enjoyed by all.

Our route to Laozzolo was somewhat scenic as we drove along narrow roads up into the Monferrato hills and witnessed quite stunning scenery. The family estate of Forteto della Luja was our destination and it has a wonderfully idyllic spot at 1000 feet up overlooking a glorious vista of vineyards and hills. Dating back to the 17th century, the Scaglione family tend 10 hectares of Moscato, Barbera, Pinot Noir and Brachetto. The wines we tasted were amazing. Both dry and sweet Passito Moscato, a Barbera/Pinot Nero blend, a Monferrato Barbera and a sweet Brachetto. Fabulous wines and a truly beautiful place.

An evening at leisure in Alba was ahead of us.