Our first full day in Uruguay was absolutely massive by any standard! The plan was three wineries, a tasting lunch and a dinner. I can only applaud the stamina of our group.
Heading north out of Montevideo for about 30km, our first stop was the family owned Pizzorno estate. Now run by the fourth generation, this estate has a top class reputation for a wide range of wines. We were hosted by Joaquim who was absolutely charming, a mine of information and a great sense of humour. Following a quick presentation of the estate, we walked around a few vineyards and toured the cellar and began our journey of discovery of Uruguayan wine and terroir. Back into the tasting room and we tasted through five wines: Merlot Rosé, Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc and two Tannats. However, it was over the three course pairing lunch that the number of wines tasted began to accelerate. With a variety of fish, meats and risotto emerged Pinot Noir, Marselan, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc Reserva, Tannat blends, a fortified Tannat, Fizz…..it seemed never ending! Alas we had to leave as there was still much to do.
Our next stop was twenty minutes south of Pizzorno and to one of the best known estates in Uruguay – Bodegas Bouza. It is a very impressive estate with lots of open space, a top class restaurant and a fleet of classic cars in the tasting room. It was always designed to be a quick visit so we sat down immediately for the tasting of four wines: Chardonnay, Merlot and two contrasting Tannats. Quality was high as expected. We then took a quick walk around the winery and barrel cellar. Harvest has begun for whites sand both here and in Pizzorno, it was great to smell the fresh aromas of fermenting grapes.
From Bouza, it was just 10 minutes to Bodega Beretta. While the family is known for the Beretta handgun, this section of the family decided they wanted nothing to do with weapons and emigrated to Uruguay. We were hosted by winemaker and owner Leticia and she was a tour de force! The joy, passion and excitement that emanated in ever louder Spanish was amazing and her friend Graciela, who was tasked with translating, struggled to keep up. However, we got the jist! We walked around the vineyard, admired the amazing tropical trees and saw the tiny winery where they make just 8,000 bottles. This was a far cry from the more modern Pizzorno and Bouza estates and the senses of connection that Leticia had with the terroir was palpable. We tasted through her Hamburg Muscat rosé and a variety of Tannats before tucking into an impossible amount of food.
It was an extraordinary end to an amazing day.