We visit Noto

The weather has been absolutely stunning this week and Thursday was no exception as we headed south to the historic Noto region. Noto acquired its DOC in 1974 and has long been recognised for the quality of its Moscato and Nero d’Avola. Our first stop was to the Marabino estate which set up in 2002 and follows both organic and biodynamic principles. Elia took us round the vineyard nearest to the winery and it was amazing to see really compacted soil thanks to rain the previous week, whereas back in May it was like walking on sand dunes.

Into the courtyard and we witnessed the amazing demi-johns of Moscato sitting outside in full glare of the sun. The Moscato wine forms a darker pigment to protect itself from the light and is a controlled oxidative style which is fortified up to 16%.

Into the tasting room and a terrific line up of wines was on show. Pure Moscato and pure Nero d’Avola showed the quality of the estate and we finished with their Uvalsole – the aforementioned fortified Moscato which was absolutely delicious!

From Marabino it was a 20 minute drive to the Relais Torre Marabino (same family of course) and despite Satnav showing the destination to be a derelict stone building, our excellent driver knew the way as we discovered a wonderful restaurant with rooms, a gorgeous pool – an oasis of calm. We had only planned a light two course lunch of melanzane and a chicken roulade and then we were off for a last minute additional visit to Cantina Marilina – also in the Noto region.

We met Marilina herself as we discovered yet another side to the complexity of Sicilian wines. Marilina and her family have plotted a different route within the Noto region by withdrawing from the Noto DOC and only making IGP wines. Moscato and the lesser known Grecanico are their principal whites. They extend the period of skin maceration and age the wines for longer than most so the styles produced are quite deep in colour with great texture and weight. We tasted a Moscato, two contrasting Grecanicos and a wonderful 2015 reserva Nero d’Avola.

And yet the day was not over! Dinner beckoned and we headed into Perle D’Ortigia – a family owned restaurant – and we tucked into Melazane Parmigiana, sardine pasta, perfectly cooked tuna and sweet ricotta with chocolate. All washed down with Grillo and a variety of Etna and Vittoria reds. A great end to a lovely tour.