An hour and a half west of Siracusa is the town of Vittoria, the centre of the eponymous DOC, and the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG. Tim gave us a good description of Italian wine laws en route, so we felt well equipped to taste some IGT Terre Sicilianne, DOC Sicilia and others. The landscape was vast, with orchards and olive groves and vegetables growing between huge outcrops of limestone rocks, at least one hill was being reduced in size by a large quarry!
Azienda Agricola Occhipinti is an organic estate established by Arianna Occhipinti about 20 years ago. Passionate about the environment, she has built up a portfolio of vineyards among a biodiverse environment spread across the Vittoria region, of which Bombolieri (where we were) was the first.
Marica was our guide, and we could not have asked for a more eloquent and passionate exponent of the Occhipinti philosophy.
Marica described the challenges of a warming climate with declining rainfall – they may need to set up irrigation in some of their vineyards if levels remain at half their historic averages. In the vineyard she showed us how they graft vitis vinifera vines onto American rootstocks in situ – definitely a first for me! And described how the sandy soil over limestone encourages the freshness their reds are known for.
Vines are trained using the Alberello system – stems are trained up a chestnut post, and in the final months before harvest are bent over to ensure resources go to the grapes.
They grow Frappato, Nero d’Avola and Grillo, Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) and Albarola, an indigenous white grape of the area.
We then walked through the winery, past the concrete tanks, the bottling line (where the necks of bottles were being dipped into wax as a final seal before labelling).
Water is recycled from the winery to the vegetable garden (which was attacked by rabbits this year, these needed to be removed humanely as it was not the hunting season!).
The winery is gravity fed, so the barrel cellar is dug deep underground – revealing the limestone rocks in its walls.
We emerged from underground and made our way to the beautiful kitchen, with its old tanks where wine was made for centuries, and a collection of memorabilia very much in keeping with Ariana’s philosophy.
Our tasting was fabulous – we tasted the Albarola, which is made naturally in the best years, the ‘SM” Vino de Contrade Grillo, a varietal Nero d’Avola, a Classico DOCG Cerasuolo di Vittoria (50/50 Frappato/Nero d’Avola), and finally the SP68 blend which is 70% Frappato and so cannot claim the DOCG.
We were so enjoying our tasting, and the breads and olive oil and bruscheta all made on the estate, but we had to leave to go to our next visit, and lunch
Tenuta Bastonaca, isanother family owned estate situated right in the heart of the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG. 15 years ago they set up in a 15ha estate, growing vines and olives, interspersed with fruit trees.
Owner Silvana explained that in addition to Frappato and Nero d’Avola they also grow Grenache and Tannat, as their winemakier felt they were well suited to their terroir. They have subsequently bought vineyards in Etna and on the island of Pantelleria, where they make a dry Zibbibo.
In their winery we passed the old tanks and press, now providing a lovely display.
They play classical music to their barrels (Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata while we were there).
Over lunch we enjoyed their Grillo and Zibibbo with local cheeses, jams and salamis, the Cerasuolo di Vittoria with an aubergine pasta and their Sud blend (including the Grenache and Tannat) with the pork.
Pudding was a traditional Mostardo di Uva. Must made from very ripe grapes (that were still hanging on the vines we had visited) is boiled down with semolina and cinnamon. in front of our very eyes! Topped with almonds it was delicious.
Two lovely visits, and a beautiful journey home, though I think some of us might have missed quite a lot of it!