Our final full day took us north of Mâcon in the direction of Beaune and the village of Santenay.
Château Philippe le Hardi was our first stop and it is a truly historic property and very important in the understanding of the nature of Burgundy. Originally known as Château de Santenay, it changed its name in the last few years in order to reflect the decision of Philippe (the Duke of Burgundy) decision to ban Gamay from all Burgundian vineyards. The first recorded example of a viticultural and quality control.
Chloe Deroy hosted our visit, and delivered a wonderfully succinct history of the estate culminating in the more recent acquisition of the Château by Credit Agricole. We then toured the historic cellar and moved on for the tasting. A wonderful selection of Côte d’Or wines were enjoyed: a new Bourgogne Côte d’Or AOC, Mercurey and Chassagne-Montrachet whites; Côte de Beaune 1er Cru, Aloxe Corton and Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru for the reds. Sublime wines and a fascinating visit.
It was a two minute drive to the centre of the village of Santenay and our rendezvous with lunch at Le Terroir. Owner Corinne Germain is a wonderful host and delivered a delicious coq au vin and assiette gourmande – just a light lunch to maintain a desire for dinner later.
It was just fifteen minutes to Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise and the renowned negociant André Delorme. Set up in 1942, this negociant has established an excellent reputation for Crémant de Bourgogne as well as a number of other wines from the region. We were hosted by Loic and Monique who took us on a very laid back and light hearted journey through the history of the estate and into the cellar.
A great tasting ensued with Crémant of course, a Bouzeron white made from Aligoté, Mercurey Blanc, Montagny 1er Cru, Givry red and Rully 1er Cru.
The day was not yet over. Dinner beckoned and we headed out to the marvellous Le Poisson d’Or restaurant. Chef Calloud Jefferson delivered a marvellous four course extravaganza: mousseline of trout, slow cooked beef, an emulsion of epoisses and another delicious assiette gourmande.
Once again, our tour to Southern Burgundy has opened eyes to the quality of the Mâconnais whites, the ageing ability of top class Beaujolais crus and the diversity and value in the Côte Chalonnaise.