Glorious sunshine greeted us on day 3 of our Piedmont tour and a big day beckoned. Our focus was on the big names of the region – Barbaresco and Barolo.
These two famous wines were among the very first in Italy to receive the highest quality status of DOCG in 1980. Both wines are made from the Nebbiolo grape – and renowned for longevity and great structure and depth.
Our first stop was at Bruno Rocca – one of the very top names in Barbaresco. The Bruno Rocca estate has established itself as a leading player and has been responsible for raising the image of the region. Bruno himself started bottling wines under his name back in 1978 and has focussed on the highest possible quality.
The view from the terrace is wonderful as you witness a natural amphitheatre of slopes. Heading into the winery, it becomes clear that there is no detail left unconsidered. A state of the art crusher destemmer was a focus of attention, together with purified air being pumped into the barrel cellar to minimise mould and a bottling machine that operates in a vacuum. The aim of all this kit was to ensure the wine minimised the risk of oxidation and remained in the best possible condition.
We were hosted by the charming Elena Oberto who talked us eloquently through the Barbaresco DOCG system and the Bruno Rocca philosophy. Moving into their elegant tasting room we contrasted two Barberas – one from Asti and the other from Alba before rounding off the visit with two of their Barbarescos including their flagship Rabaja. Fabulous estate and very high quality wines.
A brief respite from the tasting pace ensued as we drove south to the small commune of Vergne near to Barolo. Our destination was the famous trattoria Al Buon Padre. Founded by Giovanni Viberti at the beginning of the last century, it is also the location of the family winery. A tasting lunch was the plan and a beautifully executed meal pairing different wines with each course was a delight. A little savoury pastry and fresh asparagus with a Piemonte Chardonnay; the local Vitello tonnato with a Barbera d’Alba; Barolo Buon Padre 2012 with the traditional Plin pasta; an amazing Barolo Riserva 2007 Bricco delle Viole with the slow cooked beef and a fabulous Moscato d’Asti with a luscious chocolate dessert. Utterly lovely.
No time for a rest though as it literally a 20 metre walk to the Vajra estate. One of my very favourite Barolo producers, we were hosted by the delightful Francesca Vajra who conveys the passion of the estate with an unreserved joy. It was a thrilling journey as we explored the winery and then sat down to a tasting of seven diverse wines that included Dolcetto, Langhe Nebbiolo, Barbera d‘Alba, the relatively unknown Freisa grape, two contrasting Barolos and a delicious Moscato d’Asti. Everyone was completely entranced and impressed by this amazing family winery. We also had the pleasure of meeting Francesca’s mother Milena who hosted one of the wines and glimpsed older brother Guiseppe. A totally hands on family business.
