At 10am we were boarding the bus which took us to the region of Luján de Cuyo, south of Mendoza city. Our first visit was to Achaval Ferrer in the Perdriel sub region, a highly respected producer of barrel aged red wines, where we viewed some bunches of grapes being sorted and destemmed before moving indoors for our tasting.
Sonia, who Tim had met here in 2015, led one group and Martina the other. I was with Sonia who was an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide to the wines we tasted, starting with three Malbecs from different regions. Of course tasting wines knowing where they hail from helps with identifying their differences, but I think most of us agreed with Sonia that the Uco Valley wine had more minerality and acidity (reflecting its higher altitude) and the Luján de Cuyo Wine more depth and perhaps more tannic sensation. The Eastern Mendoza wine was a revelation – a rich, complex wine with ripe tannins, beautifully balanced – putting paid to any idea that Eastern Mendoza wines are bulk Bonardas, this had come from 100 year old vines on their own roots!
The 2021 Quimera was a blend of Merlot with Bordeaux varieties, which refreshed our palates and prepared us for the climax of our tasting – the 2014 vintage of Bella Vista, made from vines planted in 1910, cropping so low it takes 3 vines to make one bottle. It was stunning, incredibly complex flavours, fine ripe tannins, and beautifully balanced. Tim had bought two bottles, and each group ended up with a half bottle, which we will finish off one evening this week.
We departed, after taking in the magnificent views of the Andes (some snow capped peaks peeping over clouds), and the water coursing through the channels created to irrigate the vineyards – Sonia had explained how crucial water rights are to viticulture in Mendoza.
A short drive back towards to Chacras de Coria, nearer to the city, brought us to Bodega L’Orange, which was a total contrast to Achaval Ferrer.
Here we met owner Joanna Foster (the other owner is her husband Ernesto Catena of the famous Argentine wine family), and she was very generous with her time explaining what was going on in their tiny winery, that they had equipped from salvaging cast offs from other wineries. Their whole philosophy is one of restraint – respecting the character of the (organic and biodynamic) grapes they are handling, minimising interventions (indigenous yeasts, no added sulphur, no pumping, no filtration or fining), she used the terms ‘natural’ to describe her finished wines, but also talked about agrocological viticulture which extends the organic philosophy of no artificial inputs to include social and commercial equity, and an absolute focus on soil health.
Having seen bunches grapes that had been fermenting for a few days being squeezed in their tiny basket press, beside the various concrete fermentation vessels, we took a look at the variety of other vessels they use to ferment and finish the wines – Barrels, Tinaja, Amphorae, Queveri, Concrete eggs and even Demi-Johns.
Our leisurely lunch was led by Almendra who explained more about the philosophy of the estate, and showed us the map of their vineyards in Vista Flores in the Uco Valley which is run on biodynamic principles. Lunch was made entirely from locally produced ingredients, including from their garden (which because it was a bit waterlogged we sadly could not visit this year to see the tortoises), we tasted a skin contact white wine, a fresh Malbec blend, a Malbec rosé and a Cabernet Franc, finishing with a tank method sparkling wine made from Chardonnay. Every year they vary their blends according to the grapes they receive (from their own vineyards and organic growers with long relationships).
We felt so welcome in this magical place but after four hours we did have to make our way back to Mendoza and said our goodbyes. Truly a day of contrasts!
